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2002+ Nissan Altima Links
Toronto Altima Club
_____________________________________
Hermans 2002 Nissan Altima Service Log
Friday, 7 August 2009
Front suspension
Topic: Suspension

New springs from 2005 Altima SE-R

New shocks 1995-99 Maxima Koni (P/N 8641-1362SP)

New upper & lower rubber spring gaskets

New tower bearing

Refinished 2 strut mount plates


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Saturday, 2 January 2010 5:29 PM EST
Wednesday, 15 July 2009

Topic: Suspension
Rear suspension replaced with 2005 Altima SE-R springs and 1996 Nissan 300ZX 1996 KYB ATX shock. I painted inside of rear strut tower with POR15.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Monday, 8 September 2008

Installed new headlights. Based on


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Tuesday, 20 January 2009 10:30 PM EST
Monday, 11 February 2008
101210 km
Topic: Oil change
Royal Purple 5W30 and Mobil1 filter.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Monday, 19 November 2007
98752 km
Topic: Oil change
Royal Purple 5W30 and Mobile1 oil filter.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Monday, 18 February 2008 7:37 PM EST
Monday, 16 July 2007
97160km
Topic: Engine

No battery charge when temp hits operating temperature. I measured ~70C on the shell of alternator with my Infrared thermometer when charge disappear. That may explain why the two electric shop where not able to find any problems with my alternator.

Update Aug 3:  Bought a used 2003 alternator from ebay seller youngstn. It was priced at US$ 74.95 (including free US shipping). It was installed Aug 1 and found to be working perfect. I have had a volt meter in the car for the last few days and found that voltage never drops lower than 13.8 volt measured in the auxillary output plug inside console, even thou temprature have been way above 30 the last few days with rear defroster and AC on.

Even the new alternator measured 70C in the summer, so this is normal. What is happening here is that alternator does not reach 70C in testbench in a electrical shop, so they simply could not reproduce it. To me, this sounds like I had a partially malfunctioning regulator in alternator.

 

 

 

Problems while removing these parts:

- Belt tensioner screw rusted stuck to bracket. I guess the 5 years of Ontario salt killed it. Belt tensioner is supposed to work like this: Loosen idler pulley. Turn tensioner anti-clockwise until idler pulley can be moved up/down about 25mm. This is supposed be enough to get belt off. I had to cut belt off (which was ready for replacement anyways at ~100 000km), and purchase a new bracket ($24) and idler pulley assembly ($121) from Nissan Scarborugh.

 

Problems while installing:

- Lower tensioner bolt on alternator was impossible to put in. The only possible way is from underneath engine with the O2 sensor connection temporary removed.  A straight long nose plier is a must to get this in. Even when removing this is a very helpful tool.

- Could not get all air out of coolant system when refilling. Solved by driving front of car up on ramps and squeezing rad and heater hoses.

 Interesting observations:

- All tools needed are 10, 12 and 14mm in various forms. In the belt area, there are 50-60mm of free space to body, and that is very little when working with sockets, so various keys must be used and they will slow you down. 


Posted by hanker at 11:38 PM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Friday, 3 August 2007 11:40 PM EDT
Monday, 9 July 2007
97160
Topic: Oil change
Amsoil 5W-30 syntetic & Mobil-1 oil filter change. Very happy with them both.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Monday, 2 July 2007
97100 km
Topic: Engine

- Replaced accessory (AC/alternator) belt (P/N 11920-8J110). The old belt was dry and cracked up on inside.

- Replaced belt tensioner

- Replaced belt tensioner bracket.

- Replaced original Nissan battery with Interstate. Old battery had a crack from negative terminal to the edge. The tray under battery has some drops of battery acid.

- Replaced coolant (Prestone brand). It had the same pretty green color as when last changed. No doubt that aluminum heads and block on the VQ35 keeps rust away from coolant.


Posted by hanker at 8:39 PM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Saturday, 7 July 2007 6:31 PM EDT
Sunday, 5 November 2006
92390km

Replaced ground wire NISSAN P/N 24808J005. It goes from battery, via screw connection to body, then to transmission. The wire at the terminal ring was corroded off on the transmission side.

The followning items was removed to get access:

  1. battery terminals
  2. battery coat
  3. battery tray
  4. first half of intake 


Posted by hanker at 8:09 PM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Sunday, 5 November 2006 8:12 PM EST
Friday, 27 October 2006
92202 km
Topic: Oil change
Mobile1 engine oil and OE Nissan Filter. To cold to do own work - went to Superior Tire on the Danforth. Good service as usual. $20.


Posted by hanker at 8:47 PM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Friday, 27 October 2006 9:08 PM EDT
Thursday, 7 September 2006
Rust on floor boards
Topic: Body
Floor boards was badly rusted, especially on drivers side. Covered under Nissan general through rust warranty. Afterwords, I sanded down drivers side floor board inside car, and painted on POR15. Now it does not matter if it gets a little moist under there!

As for POR15. Its a serious restorer product available from manufacturer por15.com (or in Canada - porcan.com) - no resellers. If you decide to go with that, I can give you some starting tips that can save lots of time. Let me know.

As for where the water comes from... I don't really know. I put in some plastic bags under carpet for a while, on top of floor board. Water was clear, no sand nor salt was appearant (roads are salted in winter season here). This makes me believe that it comes from 3 sources in this order:
1) Wet left drivers feet.
2) Condensation.
3) leaky or missing floorboard plug

As for 1) Water is not catched by the removable floor mat. Water will then be filtrated into clear water while going through floorboard mat. In 2004 (My guess), Altima came with a plastic dead pedal. It keeps foot further back, which should keep water away from floorboard mat. This may have been Nissan attempt to fix problem.

As for 2) Condensation. In the winter, a leak in a heater duct routed under floorboard carpet may let warm air condensate on cold floor. The heater duct is a detachable multi-piece unit, which may leak in its first joint.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Monday, 7 September 2009 1:37 AM EDT
Wednesday, 19 July 2006
88100km
Topic: Paint
Repainted front bumper. I was tired of looking at an earlier very bad paint job. It was taken off and given to Donway Ford Bodyshop for painting in OEM body colour. During sanding, they found that it was repainted 3 times before. End result was great.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Friday, 27 October 2006 9:05 PM EDT
Friday, 14 July 2006
88050 km
Topic: Oil change
Mobile1 engine oil and OE Nissan Filter.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Saturday, 13 May 2006
89000km
Topic: Paint
Washed, cleaned (Meguiars Step 1) and waxed Meguiars Tech Wax ($29.99 from Crappy Tire). End result was brilliant.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Friday, 27 October 2006 9:19 PM EDT
Sunday, 30 April 2006
87727km
Topic: Brakes, front
Warning:
Do not touch brake pedal during procedure. Piston may pop out of caliper.

Parts needed:
- 2 new rotors. I went with Raybestos PG Plus ordered from ctamotorsports.com in Brampton: $99 each.
- 1 set of 4 pads. I went with the Hawk HBS HB268F665 from http://www.northernmotorsport.com/ in Hamilton: $89.99 $5 shipping.
More parts choices are listed here

Tools needed:
- wd40 or similar could have been applied 1-2 days before, but is not possible due to the fact that bolts are not exposed and therefor liquid is not going penetrate enough.
- steel wire
- 22mm long hex key. Both the 22m hex key and socket felt a little big. A 21mm was too small. I asked Atlas Machinery, they did not have anything in the middle of 21 and 22mm, not even in imperial. Google search showed a few 21.5mm available on the marked, but this is very odd.
- an old brick
- 22mm socket (preferably of impact type)
- caliper lubricant (like Permatex brand)
- C-clamp, a 6" clamp gives more freedom
- 2 cans of brake cleaner
- 6 rolls of papertowels or similar



Procedure for front brakes:
- Raise car and take off wheel.
- Remove hub to caliper bolts by first loosing it with the hex key and old brick, which served as hammer for the occasion. One bolt was severly freezed, and I used the 22mm impact socket, 12" long extender where end of it was lifted by garage jack. My extender had a slight bow to it before screw started moving... scary situation.
- Always keep the thin shims that sits on them unless they are rusting totally apart, even if there is no need for them for the new pads. If that is the case, go buy some new ones. It is not a total must to buy them, but they do reduce brake squeel, so yes they do serve a purpose.
- Clean off all parts
- Remove lid on brake fluid reservoir. Note that there is two reservoirs located in the area, the higher one is hydralic clutch, the lower one is for for brakes.
- Press in piston using C-clamp. Brake fluid came out of reservoir and dripped onto front subframe then to ground. There was about 20-30ml (~ 1 ounce) coming out. Probably good idea for next time to be prepared for a mess like this. I used a turkey baster to level down to MAX again.
- Clean off new rotors
- Attach caliper grease where pad and bracket meets.
- Pads and rotor must be kept grease free, else you must go out and buy a new one. Not cheap.
- Grease screws as well and mount it all.
- Put brake reservoir lid on.
- Press brake pedel 5-10 times, the first couple of times it will be very spongy.
- Bed in the new pad/rotor combination.

Painting:
I took the time to paint calipers using blue colored caliper paint from DupliColor. It is a lot more appealing color and finish than the similar VHT product.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EDT | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Friday, 27 October 2006 8:57 PM EDT
Sunday, 2 April 2006
87040km
Topic: Paint
Paint cleaning lower side of driver side behind rear wheel, rear bumper, passenger side front and rear lower door panels.


Posted by hanker at 8:53 PM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Sunday, 2 April 2006 8:56 PM EST
Tuesday, 28 March 2006
87025km
Topic: Oil change
Mobile1 engine oil and OE Nissan Filter


Posted by hanker at 6:10 PM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Tuesday, 28 March 2006 6:12 PM EST
Wednesday, 22 February 2006
86305 km
Topic: Tires
2 new 205/60/16 winter Kumho K17 installed on fronts. They were bought from "Scarboro Kia and OK Tire" 416-266-066 for $122 each. Rears are still 215/55/60 Michelin Artic Alpin.


Posted by hanker at 12:08 PM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
Updated: Wednesday, 22 February 2006 12:25 PM EST
Thursday, 16 February 2006
86209 km
Topic: Rear suspension
Replaced rear cross member as part of Nissan recall. Sway bar, springs, shock absorbers and end-links were not changed.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EST | Post Comment | Permalink
86298 km
Topic: Brakes, rear
Replaced rear rotors ($110.37 each) and pads ($107.88 a pair) with OEM Nissan parts.


Posted by hanker at 12:01 AM EST | Post Comment | Permalink

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