Above: First prototype bracket with headlight units in. Note the 2 bolts with red plastic tube that actually holds the 2 plates apart.

Above: Second prototype bracket. Plastic tube spacers have been replaced with solid spacers. Mounting holes has been made to fit stock mointing holes. 8 stainless steel bolts are used to strengthen.

Above: Second prototype painted in Duplicolor flat black

Above: Very limited vertical space. Note the nuch deeper projector unit behind the reflector based high beam.
 
 

Above: picture of all drawings

- Duplication can only be done by request drawings from me in size 1:1 by snail mail. The headlight is wider than my scanner.
- Cut the 15 pieces that the bracket consist of by using Optilux (twice as powerful as a Dremel) and Dremel with cutting bit.

You only have 4 min to apply glue before the parts has to sit in posistion,
This is probably the best order:

- Glue 2 3-layered spacers. 16.5 mm total (3x5.5mm).
- Glue high and low beam bracket together with 16.5 mm distance and 25 mm overhang (top view):

-Glue bottom sheet to H/L beam bracket.
-Glue top sheet. Make shure the distance are 97mm between top and bottom sheet.
-Glue in Mount bracket.
-Glue in side filler plates.
-Glue in plate behind turn light.
-Glue plate to cover lower opening in gts cover on outer lower side,
-Sand bracket with 240grit.

Alt 1) Sand with 400 grit, prime and paint in selected color (black).
Alt 2) Send units for chroming - around $50-120 each.

Final comments:

• 5.5mm thick polycarbonate was used almost evrywhere, except for some vertical plates which was using 3mm. The sheet thickness was undoubtably a bit overkill. 5.5mm is a thick sheet, it weighs more, takes more fabrication time and cutting temperature goes up because cutting is slower, causing some local "cooking", which requires some exta cleanup. After it was glued together, it was stiffer than any other OEM headlight. Going down to a 4.5mm sheet would be a better choice.
• A solid basis molded and released from the mounting shroud behind would have saved some time, instead of my trial and error only approach.
• Usage of POR-15 epoxy putty as cosmethic filler was not advantagous. It was used to soften out the look of the square looking bracket. Corners where filled with this putty. Unfortunatly, this putty hardnes like a rock and cracks like a rock. Bracket got a small smack once, lexan and plastic welder is slightly elastic, POR-15 epoxy putty was not, so it made a very thin crack in the putty. It is not visible unless lots of daylight and looking very close. There is no chance that unit will start leaking because of this. It was just a cosmetic filler.

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