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Left: cross drilled rotors from KVR Performance.
Right: Typical high milage uneven rotor wear. 20% of surface not used!

How to change Front brakes (94-95 only)
Tools: Shaft for the wrench with ca 30cm (as long as possible within the wheelwell)
16mm socket for your wrench
Flat screwdrivers
Brake silicone grease
Brake Cleaner (deanatured alcohol)
Small C clamp to push piston back. 15-20cm opening.
Block of wood.

1. Pop the hood & take the cap off of the brake fluid resevoir. (makes pushing the caliper piston in much easier, you may have to remove a little fluid to avoid spilling some)

2. Loosen the 5 wheel hub nuts, then raise the front of the car on axel stands.

3. Remove wheels

4. Loosen the 2 caliper bolts with the 16mm, but only remove the lower one.

5. Carefully push the caliper bottom part against the front of the car and up, but not so far that the rubber boot (on the top slider pin) will touch the shield. The edge of the shield is very sharp.

6. Remove the top caliper bolt, and push the caliper away from the rotor.

7. Rest the caliper on the top of shield, with the opening of the caliper facing upwards or against you.

8. Try to push the inner pad away from the piston and it should fall into your hands. Remember the differnce between inside and outer pads.

9. The outer pad is removed in a similar way. If it is stuck, tray pray them out with a few screwdrivers, maybe combined with WD-40. Remember that rotors, pads, calipers, rubbergaskets etc. should not receive petroleum based liquids, so whatever you spray on, you must remove with brake cleaner. (Do you have dirty hands now?)

10. Check the rubber boots on the caliper for leakage and cracks. If you see something suspiciuos, you might as well go and and have the caliper(s) maintained (45CAN).

11. Using a C clamp (I used a big plier. It left some scares on the caliper), push the piston back into the caliper. Now the brake fluid level will rise 2-5 mm depending on how worn out your brakes are.

12. The rotor can now be removed. Use a coat hanger to suspend the caliper away from the rotor. Using a hammer, tap the outside of the rotor between the studs. Mine was so stuck, even hammering on the inside and outwords. If you have to tap hard, put a peice of wood between the hammer and the rotor. Mine still would not come off. After soaking the back of the rotor in WD-40, inside against the wheel bearing, and waiting for 5-10 minutes, it came off.

13. Clean the area with braek cleaner.

14. Apply some brake silicone grease to the inside of the new rotor. Temporarily secure the new rotor by using a couple of wheel lug nuts.

15. Install the new pads. Push them in the same way as you put them in. Apply brake silicone grease to the back of the pads.

16. Carefully install the caliper onto the hub, and apply a drop of Locktite on the end of the bolt. Do not overtighten.
If the piston is not moved back enough, you will now see that you cannot easily slide the caliper onto the rotor. Do not try to force it on. Do steps 8,10 and 11 again.

17. Put the wheel back on & snug it up. Lower the car, cap on the brake fluid resevoir cap and tighten the wheel lug nuts.

18. Start the car, pump the brakes a couple of times. (yes, they do feel spongy until the piston gets out!!) Go out for a drive. My KVR rotors and High Performance metallic pads was supposed to be driven in: brake down normally from 20mph 5 times and do not drive for 1 hour. Contact your supplier to find out how your brakes should be run in.

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