84610 May 20 Proud owner of a
new vehicle. Bought at Gallinger Motors in Milton, ON for $15.500
86437 Jun 12 First oil change
88000 Jun 30 Changed KVR rotors and pads
on the front. Complete description w/photos.
89100 Jul 15 Meguirs Cleaner and Gold Class Vax on all paint.
89500 Jul 27 Changed to Mobil-1 10-30 syntetic oil. No leakage later beacause of that!
89714 Aug 08 Mounted 4 Dunlop SP4000
90200 Aug 25 Changed to Prestone coolant, new thermostat, new passengers side heater hose
90200 Aug 25 Changed temp sender
90800 Sep 28 Changed upper rad hose
91800 Oct 18 Removal of front bumper cover and front fender splash shields.
91800 Oct 19 Complete underbody wash. Oh man, what a mess..
91800 Oct 20 Drying for 2 days
91800 Oct 21 Ziebart rust protection
92100 Nov 05 Mounted PIAA 1500xt Foglights. The stock foglights just functioned as cosmetics. The 1500Xt actually doubles the light with headlights on!
92300 Nov 09 Antenna mast stuck. Easily replaced by following instructions coming with it. Ater you remove the inner fender!
92500 Dec 15 Refilled coolant due to freezing point of -17C
93200 Dec 19 Major leak form waterpump. The front cat was full of coolant. Was temp fixed by using brand name cooling system sealer.
93500 Dec 29 Left car at Shawn Hyland Motorsports, ON for 60K service, waterpump, UDP's!! Here's the
receipt. They dont do SHO work anymore. Reason is pretty simple. Not enough SHOs on the road. And too different technology compared to their core business, Mustangs.
1999:
94000 Jan 21 Replaced battery for the 1st time with a Canadian Tire Motomaster Eliminator.
The stock Motorcraft had heat bulks from sitting close to the heads. There should be some kind of protection from the radiant heat. Like a heat shield from "Cool-it thermotec".
96500 May 04 Overhauled
starter. 3 of 4 brushes were complely gone. Even the solenoid needed replacement. 105 CAN $. Easy, but crampy job.
98500 Jun 10 Cleaned all paint and waxed with McGuires Gold. Total 12 hours job. Cleaning and washing is 9 of them.
99500 Jun 25 Subframe recall done at Bay Lincoln Mercury. Even the lower bushing (F3DZ 5400155A) was replaced in addition to the kit (XF1Z 5A364 AA). Lots of metal pieces was left under the front carpets from the 2" hole needed to be drilled. I cleaned it up, painted, and added rust protection.
100020 Jul 17 left front spring snapped off!! Replaced with new Ford springs and Tokicos shocks.
101000 Jul 27 Installed plastic subframe mounts (made by Tim Dahm )/bolts/washers.
101000 Jul 26 Converted to DexCool. Replaced lower rad hose.
101000 Jul 27 Upgraded from stock 22.5 mm to 26mm rear sway bar. Found it at a junk yard from a 91SHO. Sanded and painted it yellow. The worn out 91SHO bushings makes ugly creaks, so these will be replaced soon!
101000 Jul 27 Changed fuel filter (Ford)
101000 Jul 27 Replaced front outer tie rod ends - TRW/Mogul P/N ES2513R
101000 Jul 27 Replaced front brake pads
101000 Jul 27 Flushed brake system. Replaced with Castrol DOT4
103000 Aug 05 battery replaced for the 2nd time with Napa Nascar model after it started spuking acid.
103500 Aug 07 Replaced screaming auxialliary belt
105000 Aug 12 Replaced oil.
106000 Sep 05 Replaced waterpump. Here is a complete description of this on an ATX. 106400 Oct 09 Vaxed with meguirs Gold class. Gotta be prepared for the salty winter...
106440 Oct 10 Replaced thermostat (again..). Part # is E9DZ-8575-B (alias name: RT-1112). Symptoms is longer
warm up time and temp gauge sitting on "L" on the HWY, started to appear lately. Noticed this time
that there is a coolant hose to the left of the thermostat. It has a stock green Ford clamp that
blocks for removal of the aluminum pipe going out from the thermostat. Why didnt I replace the
clamp last year? The clamp is now bend somewhat, so its impossible to get off. I have to use my
mini drill with a cutting blade some day...
106540 Oct 11 Finally got to put in 2 new bushings
(part #E9DZ-5493-A, which is a package of 2) for the 91 SHO rear sway bar I installed July 27.
Oh yes, that made a difference. Its my 60 profile tires that probably is the softest part now.
106790 Oct 19 Replaced fuel pump with Carter P74117. Bought for $143.75 at Auto Parts, 777 Warden Ave, (416)285-0255. By the way, the stock pump draws ~ 3.5A at 11V and ~ 5.5A at 15.5 in water. (Yea, I know, its a FUEL pump...)
106800 Nov 10 Mobil-1 Oil change
106900 Nov 28 Drivers side fan broke. The front bearing of the fan were gone. The rear bearing is just a sleeve (poor quality)
Temprarilily running w/o it. Luckily its not summer!
108100 Dec 28 Made gauge panel and mounted Autometer Oil Pressure gauge. This is how you make them! Readings at RPM: 1,5k - 20PSI, 1750 - 25PSI, 2500 - 37PSI, 3k - 45PSI. On a cold winter mornings it easily goes up to ~80 PSI at mid RPMs. Dont go there!
2000:
109000 Jan 11 Replaced Radiator Ford P/N F3DH-8N150-AA. Bought from Oakwood Radiator Service, $235.75
110000 Jan 23 Mobil-1 Oil change
111000 Feb 19 New Windshield. $70. Olympic Auto Glass, Karol Sokolowski. 7 days a week mobile: (416) 822-5221. According to him, all Gen II has the same windshield.
111100 Feb 29 Fan replacement. The stock fans are 13" and 10". The 13" stopped rotating due to worn out bearings Nov 28. Replaced it with a "Perma Cool HP 12inch". P/N is 19008. 1650CFM at 7.5Amps is pretty good.
It is sold through JEGS (jegs.com). Installation was done by removing the old fan(of course) and cutting out all the small fins behind the stock fan that somewhat protects human fingers from getting into the fan.(You know when you look at your favorite engine (SHO) and hold your hands over the rad support....hehehe).
Then bend the bracket of the new fan 2-3mm and put in in. Insert 10-15mm length of 3/8 inch aluminum tubing as spacers for 1/4 inch x 2 inch bolts. Change polarity and solder on the stock wire that already has the connector on.
The rad fan fuse is 60Amp. It is selected that high because start current on electrical motors
are 2-5 times higher than when it
has reached operating speed. Stock wiring should be fine to use with any aftermarked fan, as
long as you dont increase the amount
of fans.
The CFM info for the stock 13" fan is after my assumption pretty high. Maybe somewhere bwteween
1200 and 2000 CFM. I compared the
stock 5 year old 13" fan to the 12" Perma Cool HP 12" fan. Seems like the Perma Cool fan blows
a little more. It is rated 1650
CFM. Comparison with old fans will only be an indication, since it is NOT a new fan anymore.
Bearings tend to wear out...
PermaCool recommends: "Six cylinder engines generally require 2,000 CFM minimum, small cubic
inch eight cylinder engines require
3,000 CFM and large cubic inch eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 4,500 CFM.
Recommendations are based on stock engines
and regular driving conditions."
From this I read that a total CFM should be close to 3000 CFM in total:
Six cylinder: 2000
High HP 1000
--------------------------
CFM 3000
The 12" and 10" combination should give 1650 + 1250 => 2900CFM.
The good part is that it mounts up the stock shroud.
It also might be possible to only use one 14" fan (2950CFM). For me it seems like one of the
challanges for the fan is actually to
get the hot air away from the rad. The space between rad and Yamaha engine is very limited.
That is why I feel that 2 fans are
better suited to push the hot air out of the engine compartment.
111200 Mar 14 Having alternator out for replacing brushes.
Battery tray and upper idler pulley have to be removed to be able the 2 lower bolts for the
alternator. Mark direction on accessory belt. Dont even bother taking the alternator bracket out
to repaint it. The last of 3 bolts needs the inner timing belt cover off!!!!!!!!
111200 Mar 15 Painting battery tray.
111200 Mar 15 Found out that stator windings was somewhat shorted on the alternator. The brushes were definatly low, the regulator made it give out too low voltage when hot. The diodes didnt show more than 5% more loss, but I replaced them anyway including the bearings.
There are 2 causes I can think that made a major influence on the wear: Cooling fan rotation was blocked back in November. The cooling fans have 60 amps fuse, and if it was drawing 55Amps plus my lights and the rest of the car, I probably past the limit of 120 Amps temprarily.
The stock 60A fuse is way too big. I am going to replace it with a 30A fuse for each fan (that is what Perma Cool recommends for their fans). Secondly, the battery acid leakage from Road Atlanta driving helped to remove insulation on stator wiring.. The alternator is made in Japan by Mitshubishi, which makes spare parts more costly than for domestics.
112000 Apr 15 Oil change
113000 May 29 Replaced ECT sensor(P/N: F2AZ-12A648-A). I measured voltage across the 2 wires. At about 0.6V, the voltage bounced up up agin to 1.6V.
Which is of course totally out of spec. See http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3cooling.html
113000 May 29 Cooling system flush in destilled water.
Parts needed: Large flat collector tank ($18), 20L of destilled water ($12 at pharmacy at Dominion grocery store),
6L of coolant, funnel ($0 if you cut it off a big plastic bottle), 30L cat litter cans/buckets
($0 if you have cats) to leave old coolant for recycling at Canadian Tire.
Empty cooling system through rad tap. Close rad tap.
Fill up cooling system with destilled water. Leave funnel in. Start up. Keep system full.
After a few minutes, open rad tap agin and continure drain. Continue to keep system full.
Empty collector tank before it gets full into cat litter cans.
Monitor color of drainage water. When clear, you are done!
114500 Jun 18 Claenad up and vaxed trunk under the rear spoiler.
Simply loosen all bolts and have a
sweatshirt to place it on while you remove the connector for the brake light. You will notice
that the bolt arent torqed at all and that Ford uses a silicon/urathene rubber seal as space
washers, which cracks/peels off when removing the bolts. The seal material came from a tube.
So I used some outdooor silocone.
114500 Jun 20 New vax - Meguires Gold class
115200 Jul 17 Starter motor turned too slow to be able to start.
Then it failed to engage. Got some metal partical in eye, so SHO was stranded in the parking lot,
I was stranded at the East General Hospital. I learned my lesson: When working under car, put
protective glasses on.
115250 Jul 24 Oil change
115750 Jul 28 Upgrade! Added unibody stabilazers - also known under the name subframe connectors.
116000 Aug 11 Upgrade! Installed new 96 SHO brake
brackets ($61 each) and bolts ($3 and $9 each) from Ford. Got rotors from UPS ($54 each)
and pads from Autozone (USD37). Painted in Racing Red "VHT Brake
Caliper drum & rotor paint" - 900F/490C temp rating and chemical resistant. Dust from pads
is pretty harsh to any paint. It is available from JC Witney
116800 Sep 5 Emission test: at 40 km/h ~ 1950RPM,
HC 39 (limit 76ppm), CO 0.16 (limit 0.42%), NO 76 (limit 566), dilution 15.46
117200 Sep 21 Oil change
117400 Oct 10 Flushed ATX by removing the hose from ATX rad
and attach a 3/8 inch diamter and 9feet hose to it. Collect into a (preferrably clear) contaier
and let it all come out with engine idling. at the first sign of sputter, turn off engine.
Added 2 quarts of Mobil-1 and topped off with Valvoline ATX oil.
117500 Oct 12 Removal of rust spots under body, painted up with
POR-15.
117600 Oct 22 Sendt for it 3rd rust spray with Ziebart.
118900 Dec 15 Installed 4 x Michelin Arctic Alpins on the stock rims.
Now that was a great improvement from half worn Dunlop SP4000 All Season - on snow.
2001:
119600 Jan 3 Changed motor oil to Mobil-1 0W30. Replaced 4.5L of
ATX oil. Added special additive from Ford for this ATX.
120000 Jan 12 Started making support bracket for new headlight modules out of 5.5mm lexan sheet.
121900 Feb 3 Replaced battery for the 3rd time. $112 at UAP/NAPA. Good price for a 78Amps battery.
121950 Feb 12 Battery light came on constant after flickering for a few
days. Cables and connections was fine. So alternator is going back to the shop that rebuild it 11 months ago.
122257 Mar 25? Motor oil (Mobil-1 0-30)/power steering change (Castrol).
122900 Apr 12 Mounted up 16x7 Ford chrome wheels on 225/55/16 Kuhmos. Works great! They are drilled out Probe GT wheels.
125000 Jun 8 Replaced front exhaust hangers P/N# F00Y-5F262-AA
125490 Jun 9 Going for another Muffler replacement. Dynomax only lasted 2 years! This time I installed steinless steel ones.
125500 Jun 9 Motor oil and filter change.
125500 Jun 9 Motor oil level gasket replacement.
125590 Jun 10 Gave trunk a polish job with Meguirs #9 Swirl Mark remover.
125590 Jun 11 New coating of Gold Class Vax.
126400 Sep 1 "Bumpy" window trim. Removed oxidation behind window trim by cutting off black rubber coating with a knife. Peel off layers of white aluminum oxide
and finalize with sandpaper. Painted with "Liquid tape".
127000 Sep 14-30 Removed more rust spots underneath body and behind rear bumper. It was yelling POR 15!!!
128700 Sep 23 Oil change
128900 Oct 3 Fuel filter Change
128900 Oct 3 Rear Caliper, rotors and pad replacement - both sides
128900 Oct 3 Brake fluid replacement
129000 Oct 21 Battery dead!. Caused by 80mA leak current. Maximum according to Helms is 50mA!
Pull out one fuse at the time from both fuse boxes.
2002:
131200 Mar 25 Starter failing only when hot.
Left me and wify stranded until we let it sit until it got cold.
Brushes were completely gone. Replaced with new rebuilt starter.
Cost $205 from Start Auto Electric, 401 Dundas St. E.
Is this my 4th strater?
132000 Apr 5 Motor oil and filter change
132000 Apr 10 Removed aux belt for diagnosing screaming pulley.
It was the upper idler pulley this time.
133000 May 20 Replaced Dexcool, destilled water, and
half a bottle of Water Wetter. I only had
16L of destilled water available and I was able to get coolant color down to
a very light red. Next time (in 1.5 years) I'll get 20L. The hard part is to actually
drive around and empty all local pharmacies for destilled water! See 113000km for more details.
133600 Jun 15 1700RPM idle. Cleared off code 336. No continous codes. Code 335 comes up during KOEO test.
133700 Jun 21 High idle fixed by slightly rotating TPS sensor. It was giving 1,05Volt at idle. Max is 1,00 Volt.
134000 Jul 3 A/C just slightly cold because of low fluid level. Morris at Vantage Auto 905-897-1164 refilled and pressure tested my system. Total of $138.
134400 Jul 12 Replaced spark plug well gaskets and valve cover gaskets.
To gain access to rear bank, the following was very useful to remove: egr pipe,
heater hoses, and the huge metal bracket that holds the 3cm thick 2wire loom located above
rear exhaust manifold. No need to open up fuel lines, simply loosen the bracket that holds it to the valve cover.
134900 Jul 14 Oil Change
134980 Jul 23 Replaced Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) Pressure Sensor F1AZ-9J460-A.
I first verified voltage at the connector: return is top pin, ground is middle and bottom is +5V ref voltage.
Also removed and verified the EGR tube for blockage by exhaust crud. Code 335 does come up anymore at KOEO.
135700 Aug 19 Emmision test. Limits are in brackets: At idle: HC: 31ppm (200), CO: 0.03% (1), NO: N/A
135700 Aug 19 Emmision test. Limits are in brackets: At 40km/h: HC: 30ppm (76), CO: 0.17% (0.42), NO: 54ppm (566).
135700 Aug 19 Replaced rear sway bar links with Shonuts heavy duty units.
135700 Aug 19 Replaced transmission fluid
135750 Aug 20 Right side custom HID headlight isntalled
135800 Aug 25 Removed rust under battery tray, and covered with acid resistant POR-15:
(I used the "Putty" version which is a little thicker, so surface doesnt get that smooth as regular POR-15. This area
is invisible unless battery is removed, so cosmetics arent that important)
Above: before and after.
136400 Sep 1 Replaced
idler pulley between waterpump and AC. Bearing has the following labels: "NSK BD20-15DWA JAPAN".
Note that the spacer does not come with
a new pulley (P/N F3DZ-6B217-B ) from Ford. The spacer have to be removed from the old pulley. It was rusted in there, so I used a clamp to
press it out. Now that I know the bearing P/N, I can go out and match that from an independant bearing manufacturer,
the next time.
The bolt in the picture is not new, it was left in POR-15 Metal Ready for 15 minutes. It was totally covered in rust.
136400 Sep 1 Replaced accessory belt with UAP Napa "Micro V belt K060837"
(produced by Gates), which has a different length, because I have first gen UDP installed.
136500 Sep 6 Replaced Mobil-1 motor oil/filter.
137200 Nov 2 Waxed with Meguiars Gold class. Thanks to Pierre for excellent warm warehouse!
138150 Dec 12 New battery from NAPA. Using a generic 72A battery. For next time: pre order the special battery from NAPA.
138200 Dec 12 Oil change
138200 Dec 12 Added in more undiluted Dexcool
138200 Dec 12 Powersteering fluid change
2003:
140080 Mar 22 Oil change
142810 Jun 29 Repainted battery hold down bracked with POR-15
143020 Jul 10 Front swaybar endlinks replacement. Type: Ford
143020 Jul 10 Coolant flush/replacement
143020 Jul 10 Oil change
143020 Jul 10 Oil filter change. Brand: Purolater
143020 Jul 10 Crank pulley portion of UDP kit (crnak+alt) disintegrated. Went back to stock pulleys. Nice to have battery charge at idle agian...
144100 Sep 13 New rotors and Carbotech Bobcat front pads installed. PAinted caliper with blue "VHT Caliper and brake paint".
144600 Oct 9 Mobile-1 Oil Change and Ford FL-400S oil filter.
144600 Oct 9 Oil bolt gasket replacement.
144680 Oct 11 Painted 11 small paint chips
144690 Oct 12 Removed some minor surface rust on inside top of door and under sunroof. Used POR-15 paint - of course.
144700 Oct 13 Replaced driver side and center console vents. They have been partially broken since I bought the car in 1998.
145000 Oct 18 Replaced flex pipe with a 3" diameter.
145000 Oct 18 Replaced O2 sensors. Used Bosch P/N 15716.
2004:
147046 Feb 1 Mobile-1 Oil Change and Ford FL-400S oil filter.
147600 Feb 17 Replaced starter motor. Symptoms where classical: slow turns and increasingly slow when hot. Is this the fifth starter?
147700 Feb 20 Replaced two coolant hoses attached to IAB (idle regulator valve), located on passenger side of throttle body. Hoses bought from www.shonutperformance.com
148234 Mar 13 Soldered on new wires to brake pedal switch after getting the classic symptoms: impossible to get shifter out of PARK.
148510 Apr 17 Replaced fog light switch with a high quality industrial recessed one.
148630 Apr 24 Replaced rear door lock tabs.
149010 Apr 30 Replaced drivers black door handle after spring broke.
149328 May 6 Replaced transmission oil/filter - Ford parts / Dextron III.
149328 May 6 Replaced engine oil/filter - Mobile 1/Ford FL-400S oil filter
149328 May 6 Replaced power steering fluid - Pennzoil
149328 May 6 Replaced brake fluid - Ford HD1
149620 May 28 Replaced coolant hose throttle body - engine. Its an
L-shaped curved that does not need to be Ford part. A 5/16" fuel line hose fit perfectly.
149620 May 28 Replaced 3 litres of coolant with Havoline premixed Dexcool.
149620 May 28 Added ~half a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
150090 July 17 Cleaned and waxed car.
151020 Aug 18 Replaced engine oil/filter: Mobile 1/Ford FL-400S
151020 Aug 18 Replaced one liter of transmission oil (from May 2004) with Mobil-1 transmission oil. I total, that will make it about 9% syntetic. Good for starts and winter.
151150 Sep 1 Key for door lock cylinder goes in, but will not turn: 2 keys worn out. Got new keys made from tags kept from manufacturing time. $34 from independant lock smith instead of $150 for a 2 door lock cylinders, ignition lock cylinder and 2 new keys.
151390 Sep 10 Replaced wireless door/trunk opener system with an aftermarked model with better range and useful receipt signal in exterior parking ligths. The system has built in support for remote start as well, but I never found that function useful, so did not install that function. I do not live in cold enough climate, I guess.
151410 Sep 12 Repaired several minor paint chips.
151490 Sep 21 Replaced fuel filter with Motorcraft - parts: $17.94
151490 Sep 21 Emission test: At 1845 RPM: HC ppm: 0 (67), CO%: 0.16 (0.37), NO ppm: 44 (501), Dilution 15.4. At idle 849RPM: HC ppm: 33 (200), CO% 0.95 (1.00), NO ppm N/A, Dilution: 15.6
152110 Oct 9 Replaced aux belt with Gates brand and cleaned all 6 pullies after some chirping where coming from belt area.
My 1995 Taurus SHO ATX
It is sold through JEGS (jegs.com). Installation was done by removing the old fan(of course) and cutting out all the small fins behind the stock fan that somewhat protects human fingers from getting into the fan.(You know when you look at your favorite engine (SHO) and hold your hands over the rad support....hehehe).
Then bend the bracket of the new fan 2-3mm and put in in. Insert 10-15mm length of 3/8 inch aluminum tubing as spacers for 1/4 inch x 2 inch bolts. Change polarity and solder on the stock wire that already has the connector on.
