Topic: Brakes, front
Do not touch brake pedal during procedure. Piston may pop out of caliper.
- 2 new rotors. I went with Raybestos PG Plus ordered from ctamotorsports.com in Brampton: $99 each.
- 1 set of 4 pads. I went with the Hawk HBS HB268F665 from http://www.northernmotorsport.com/ in Hamilton: $89.99 $5 shipping.
More parts choices are listed here
- wd40 or similar could have been applied 1-2 days before, but is not possible due to the fact that bolts are not exposed and therefor liquid is not going penetrate enough.
- steel wire
- 22mm long hex key. Both the 22m hex key and socket felt a little big. A 21mm was too small. I asked Atlas Machinery, they did not have anything in the middle of 21 and 22mm, not even in imperial. Google search showed a few 21.5mm available on the marked, but this is very odd.
- an old brick
- 22mm socket (preferably of impact type)
- caliper lubricant (like Permatex brand)
- C-clamp, a 6" clamp gives more freedom
- 2 cans of brake cleaner
- 6 rolls of papertowels or similar
Procedure for front brakes:
- Raise car and take off wheel.
- Remove hub to caliper bolts by first loosing it with the hex key and old brick, which served as hammer for the occasion. One bolt was severly freezed, and I used the 22mm impact socket, 12" long extender where end of it was lifted by garage jack. My extender had a slight bow to it before screw started moving... scary situation.
- Always keep the thin shims that sits on them unless they are rusting totally apart, even if there is no need for them for the new pads. If that is the case, go buy some new ones. It is not a total must to buy them, but they do reduce brake squeel, so yes they do serve a purpose.
- Clean off all parts
- Remove lid on brake fluid reservoir. Note that there is two reservoirs located in the area, the higher one is hydralic clutch, the lower one is for for brakes.
- Press in piston using C-clamp. Brake fluid came out of reservoir and dripped onto front subframe then to ground. There was about 20-30ml (~ 1 ounce) coming out. Probably good idea for next time to be prepared for a mess like this. I used a turkey baster to level down to MAX again.
- Clean off new rotors
- Attach caliper grease where pad and bracket meets.
- Pads and rotor must be kept grease free, else you must go out and buy a new one. Not cheap.
- Grease screws as well and mount it all.
- Put brake reservoir lid on.
- Press brake pedel 5-10 times, the first couple of times it will be very spongy.
- Bed in the new pad/rotor combination.
I took the time to paint calipers using blue colored caliper paint from DupliColor. It is a lot more appealing color and finish than the similar VHT product.